A Walk Around The Island

How long is a piece of string?

For a long time now I’ve liked the idea of walking around the Island, all of it that is.  As a small boy I mucked about at different parts of the sea wall, Labworth beach was a favourite since I lived near there. Thorney Bay and the old fort was another and of course like most kids the Concrete barge up the point was a regular haunt. The far western side of the island remained unexplored.

Recently the subject came up in conversation and my mate Ian said “lets do it then”. Out came the Ordnance Survey map of the area, and together with a piece of string to stretch around the sea wall, we arrived at a measured distance of 16 miles. Crude I know, but it works. We decided we would travel anti- clockwise and start at Tewks Creek pump station in Dovervelt Road. We reckoned that would get us to the Lobster Smack for lunch and we will have got just over half way.

Golf of course!

Our start was 9.15 am on a bright and sunny morning. The golfers were busy on the course as we passed, then onward passed the allotments to cross the Canvey Road at 10 am. This was the start of the little used path along the sea wall. This section is not built up like most of the wall around the Island. The sea defence here is by the Dam at Benfleet bridge. Another dam completes the flood prevention of this area further on. Both dams are open for small boats to pass and can be closed when high tides are due. This section of the walk takes us away from roads and is all countryside.

10.30 am. Saw us passing beneath Canvey Way Road Bridge and on to a newly constructed entrance to the new RSPB West Canvey Marsh nature reserve. We entered and followed a new footpath for about a hundred yards to the bird hide. The whole area looked very well organised and is a real asset to Canvey. There is a picnic area, kids play area and car park.

The dam, near Pitsea creek.

11.00 am. And back on the sea wall onward to the other dam mentioned earlier. There may be a footpath across this dam one day allowing walking to Wat Tyler Country Park at Pitsea. At the moment there are large gates preventing access.

Further on we arrived at the entrance from the sea wall into Canvey Wick reserve where there is information detailing some of the unusual wildlife to be found there. Considered as one of the most diverse and species-rich sites in the area, rarities including The Shrill Carder Bee and the Morley Weevil are found here.

By now we were ready for our lunch break, and after a few more miles we passed the old Port of London jetty, just outside the Lobster Smack Pub. the hut on the jetty is now manned by the volunteers of The National Coastwatch Institution. We arrived at 12.30 where we were met by our wives, Ellen and Sue, who had drinks waiting for us and a table booked.

Lunch lasted for an hour and a half and 2pm. Saw us on our way past the Jetties, Canvey’s Oil Terminal and the Calor Gas Depot. Thorney Bay Camp seems to have grown and now is occupied by several hundred static caravans. Thorney Bay itself was busy with lots of sunbathers enjoying the large beach there.

Labworth Cafe. built circa 1933.

After the Bay came The Labworth Café. It’s been there as long as I can remember, now a very good restaurant upstairs, allowing excellent views of the estuary while you may enjoy a good evening meal. Downstairs is a daytime Café. About 1980 the building was considered to be in the way of the sea wall reconstruction and demolition was on the cards. Councillor Ray Howard stood against that possibility and the building was saved. Local man Chris Topping, after a lottery win, bought the building and this grade 2 listed building has been restored to what you see today.

3pm. Found us having a cup of tea at the family owned and run Concord Beach Café. The tea is proper tea served by friendly people, and I can recommend the chips.

We pushed on and half an hour later we were at the Point, arriving at the Island Yacht Club at 3.30pm. Amongst the many rows of stored boats there is a public footpath which will take you out onto the sand dunes, but, be aware of the tides, you could get your return cut of by incoming water.

Not to far to go now, 4pm and the area now known as Canvey Heights. It can be describes a country park of sorts, and has great views out across the estuary. The area, some years ago was Canvey’s refuse tip.

We concluded our walk back at Tewkes Creek at 4.30pm. It’s been a really enjoyable day, changing landscape along the way. Our walking time was 6 hours, and I have to say we were in no hurry, stopping often to look at something or the other, and taking a few photo’s. I estimated our walking speed to be just over two and a half miles per hour, that is, if we calculated the distance correctly.

But then, just how long is a piece of string ?

Comments about this page

  • Thank you Mr Watkins, for the lovely comments about our Tea and Chips.

    Lea and John, Concord Cafe.

    Your walk is one that all of us Islanders should do, There are parts that I for one have never seen. Are you going to offer a guided tour? Would have liked to see a photo of our much loved pool!

    By Lea Swann (03/05/2010)
  • Guided tour, there’s a thought. Best do the walk before the secret council commitee sell the right to walk the sea wall.

    By Peter Watkins (04/05/2010)
  • I really enjoyed reading about your walk. As an Islander living in scotland it brought back many memories. I often visit the Island, but tend to just visit family without seeing all my old haunts. Thanks

    By grooveyval (10/07/2010)
  • Liked your story read it after my attemted cycle ride today sunday 17th Nov 2013 I decided to giveit a try round the island I live near smallgains so I started off from home around 9am cycled along the sea wall from the sailing club past the Labworth passed the Lobster Smack. After the Lobster smack the going by bike gets harder as this time of year its soft and churned up by cattle and horses. Went passed the fuel tanks and was around the creek entrance to the RSPB when I got a puncture it was about 10.30 I then had to walk pushing my bike under Canvey Way I had no phone with me so I decided to walk along the winding creek footpath the going got harder due to heavy mud eventually got to the road near the rubbish yard and some kind people let me use there mobile to phone home, as thought my wife was worried as I said I would only be an hour she came a got me from Waterside. I would not recommend a cycle ride in the winter I think by foot is the best bet so next spring 2014 I think my wife and I will do your walk lunch at the Lobster Smack seems a good idea.

    By Steve Gunter (17/11/2013)
  • Good effort Steve, The walk is to be recommended when its dry out there.


    By Peter Watkins (24/05/2014)
  • Thanks for this story Peter. much appreciated. I lived on Canvey from 1968 to 1973 and worked there as a Gas Fitter for the North Thames Gas Board and all the gas engineers in those days cycled around the island to do jobs in customers homes. Myself and a friend John are thinking of walking around the Island sea wall if possible and this was most informative and interesting.

    Thanks again, Tony

    By Tony Chadwick (10/08/2017)
  • It a great place to relax and take a dog with your and I come all the way from London to just sit a chill I have mental health and it’s so nice and people are very friendly and the people in cafe and good food love it 

    By Angela dara (17/10/2018)
  • Very interesting overview of Canvey Island. Thank you. It’s a lovely walk and the inset photos were very accessible. I’ve cycled around most of the island now. Some areas are ideal for cycling, some are a bit gravely and others are downright treacherous with traffic coming from every direction! Shame the A130 off the island doesn’t accommodate a cycle/walking track on the grass verge on one side. Hope to live on Canvey Island real soon.

    By Marian Lenehan (16/02/2022)

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